Classic correlation and causation
Whenever I browse American Dutchess's webstore (yes, I adore their shoes) I'm always confused by the Lolita tag. However, I recently noticed they got rid of it, but it still remains in the webstore's code. The tag itself felt confusing and like a relic of the not-so-distant past when over-the-top Classic Lolita reigned supreme for a while since classic Lolitas felt they too needed to have outfits with a bit more oomph to wear to events. In The peculiar prince I already explained that in the early 2010s, LARPing, cosplay and historical costuming slightly increased in prominence because the internet made it easier to find. Besides that, creators too could gather an audience through social media which became an easy gateway. This happened mainly through YouTube in the case of Bernadette Banner, Morgan Donner, Abby Cox and Karolina Żebrowska, who are all very talented and knowledgeable historical costumers. This got me thinking on how the historical costuming community influenced the Lolita community and how the Lolita community influenced the historical costuming community.
In 2019 truly on YouTube released a video, Living As An 18th Century Lolita, covering the story of Nea Viitama, a Finnish Lolita who enjoys living as an 18th century lady. She combines Lolita fashion with historical elements like feathers in her hair and pompadour hairstyles in full Rococo splendor. Even the dresses she designs are influenced by history with her explaining that one she made, was inspired by Renaissance fashion. It cannot be denied that she is a very talented sewist and designer. Unfortunately she doesn't wear Lolita anymore but she is a good example of how some people will combine Lolita fashion with historical fashion to achieve an "over-the-top" look. She reminded me of Duchess Milianda who is a historical costumer that sells and occasionally wears Lolita fashion. Her inspiration comes from 18th and 19th century fashion as she describes in her About-section on YouTube. I'm a big fan of her creations (eying that Victorian Jacket Velvet) and it definitely helps to know she sews it all by herself.
Nea Viitama by Wolipop (2019) |
Nea Viitama by Wolipop (2019) |
Linda Friesen and Ivy (AKA the_sewlo_artist) both found a passion for historical costuming via Lolita fashion. Linda Friesen had been working with Lolita fashion from 2007, but now she is a Dutch private couturier that finds inspiration in fantasy, fairytales and former times. Ivy is very well-known in the historical costuming community, and even beyond that, for her beautiful creations. She has admitted in the past that she started with historical costuming when she felt sewing Lolita fashion became repetitive. It seems that a lot of Lolitas turned historical costumers share that same sentiment of sewing Lolita becoming boring. I can imagine this being the case because I've noticed that the patterns don't change much with the shape of the skirt always being bouffant. In the end, most of the differences in Lolita fashion lay in the "details" (fabric and embellishments), whilst in historical costuming the silhouette does change a lot depending on the time period. For instance, over a span of thirty years the Lolita silhouette hasn't changed, but in historical costuming this could mean going from a full gown to an A-line silhouette.
1860's Womens' fashion by Bloshka |
1890's Women's fashion by Bloshka |
Naturally, correlation does not imply causation, as my title already suggested. I just felt it was worth exploring that for some Lolitas historical costuming and Lolita fashion go hand in hand, be it as a gateway or as some kind of extension. I have noticed that people will often post Lolita-related questions on r/HistoricalCostuming. Even I have used The "Keystone" Jacket and Dress Cutter to draft a pattern for a walking skirt. I think it's pretty common to assume that historical costumers will only wear historical garments for events, but I think it might be easily forgotten that not every historical outfit consisted of a grandiose gown and big hair. Even so, there are people like Zack Pinsent who will dress to the nines everyday like a 21st-century dandy with top hats, collared waistcoats and breeches. There are probably more people like him, but they haven't been put in the spotlight.
I think the best comparison
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